From the dial to the movement to the buckle, the brand’s craftsmanship can be examined anywhere on the watch, where the brand can show its details. The clasp is the seemingly ordinary part of the watch that plays an important role when it is worn – holding the strap securely in place to allow the watch to be worn on the wrist, and therefore on the wrist. Throughout the evolution of watchmaking history, the design of the buckle has not changed with the times. On the contrary, it has gradually stabilized and appeared in the market for watches. Depending on the different materials or types of straps, which type of strap should be matched? Next, I will sort out the common types of buckles in the current market. Which one do you prefer?
Pin buckleThe pin buckle is arguably the oldest of the many buckle types, and has been used all along with leather strap watches because of its ease of operation, self-adjusting strap length, and simplicity of design. Pin buckles are also known as ㄇ buckles, because the most simple pin buckle design looks like a ㄇ character. Of course, there are many brands that add their own characteristics to their pin buckle design, such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, whose pin buckle is a very representative design that can be recognized simply by looking at the buckle, making it a very successful example of pin buckle adaptation. Although the history is long, the pin buckle still has an immutable disadvantage, namely the long pull and strap pin hole fixed will cause damage to the strap, which in turn must be replaced regularly.
Folding claspThere are two types of folding clasps: double-sided and single-sided, starting with the single-sided clasp. The folding clasp is developed to make up for the shortcomings of the traditional pinhole type strap. The biggest difference is that the pinhole is only used as part of the fixed strap, using the pinhole to hold the strap in place, while the other end is the metal folding clasp, which can be taken off the watch by simply moving the folding clasp every day, the whole process does not allow the leather strap to cause friction, so it can protect the perimeter of the clasp and the integrity of the leather strap. As the front has been broken with a bilateral folding clasp, so I have to explain the disadvantages of the single-sided folding clasp is designed to have a certain length, for people with thin wrists will appear too large, in the adjustment process is limited, barely wear it will appear loose situation, for the watch is not only dangerous but also not beautiful.
Butterfly claspThe two-way folding clasp is a derivative of the one-sided folding clasp, also known as the butterfly clasp because the two-way folding design resembles a butterfly when fully spread out. The butterfly clasp improves on the shortcomings of the single-sided folding clasp mentioned earlier, and is no longer limited to owners of certain wrist sizes. But because the butterfly clasp has more parts than the single-sided folding clasp, the chance of failure increases when it is disassembled more frequently on a daily basis, and the double-fold design also makes the butterfly clasp thicker than the average clasp, which is a disadvantage of the butterfly clasp.
Folding Safety Buckle (Diving Buckle)The folding safety clasp is more commonly found in sports watches, and although it is very similar to the spring-loaded folding clasp, it adds a safety clasp as a protection system to prevent conditions like diving watches from accidentally touching when they dive into the deep ocean, allowing the watch to be worn safely on the wrist. For the design of the folding safety buckle, Rolex invented the Glidelock buckle, a double extension system strap made of highly erosion-resistant 904L stainless steel, designed for deep-sea environments. Rolex’s patented Glidelock buckle allows divers to extend the strap up to 20mm at 2mm per bar, and the discounted telescopic links extend the strap an additional 26mm.
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Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, Rolex,