About the watch lug size I believe many people do not know

A regular watch wearer may be confused over time as to why some watches of the same diameter are extra large and some are extra small. The same watch can be used to make a large watch, or even a small watch that is bigger than a large watch.

This phenomenon has to do with a statistic that many experts won’t tell you.

First of all, a question: when looking at the parameters of a watch, what data do you focus on? The average watchmaker will say: the diameter and thickness of the case, the material of the case, the depth of water resistance, the movement model, etc.

But a true veteran would also look at one more thing: the lugs.

To be precise, the distance from the upper lugs to the lower lugs.

This number may seem insignificant, and few watches are deliberately marked, but it is crucial to the fit and experience.

For example, the new Rolex Aquatimer, which has been getting a lot of hype lately, has a diameter that is 1mm larger than the old Aquatimer. But because the upper and lower lugs are the same distance apart as the old Ghost, it is worn, and so it is the same size.

It’s easy to see that the distance between the upper and lower lugs is as important as the diameter of the watch.

Short lugs

Short lugs, which make the watch look smaller.

Take for example the Doxa SUB 300, a professional dive watch with a cool silhouette like a flying saucer and a 42mm diameter.

As a comparison, the Rolex Aquatimer is 40mm or 41mm.

In terms of diameter, this SUB 300 is a big watch.

But the distance between its upper and lower lugs is only 45mm, compared to about 48mm for the Aquatimer. 3mm smaller than the Aquatimer.

This way, it doesn’t look big at all when it comes to actual wearability. It has the ruggedness of a dive watch, but with a comfort level close to that of a formal watch.

This is not obvious to people who look at the diameter of the watch without looking at the lugs.

No lugs

Shorter than short lugs, there are no lugs.

An example is the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph from Henri Musso, which is 42mm in diameter and also looks like a big watch, but without lugs.

The absence of lugs means that the distance between the upper and lower lugs is equal to the diameter of the watch, both 42mm.

Again, take the Aquatimer, which has 48mm upper and lower lugs, a difference of as much as 6mm.

So even with a 42mm diameter, this Henri Musso is still not too big, thanks to the lugless design.

Long lugs

One of the typical representatives of long lugs is the NOMOS.

Nomos is perceived by most watch enthusiasts as a showy brand. But in fact, it’s bigger than you think.

Because many Nomos models have very long lugs.

For example, the Ahoi Atlantik 552 from Nomos is only 40mm in diameter, but the upper and lower lugs are 50mm apart.

The svelte case shape and dial have an extremely bold wingspan.

This also makes it a watch that many people with thin wrists will find not so manageable when they get their hands on it.

Summary

Despite this, much of the watch press seems to disregard this data, often writing only the diameter and lug spacing of a given watch, but not the distance between the upper and lower lugs.

So when choosing a watch, we recommend that you look at the length of the lugs yourself. Long lugs, short standard lugs, and designs without lugs can all affect how it looks in your hands.

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Nomos, Rolex, Doxa, waterproof,