Learn about watch expertise

If you’re looking to purchase a watch but don’t know that much about them, let’s learn a few specialized facts about watches that we hope will help you today.

What is flyback retrograde

The flyback effect first appeared in a pocket watch with a retrograde calendar created in 1794 by Breguet, the “founding father of today’s watchmaking”. The actual flyback is a constant fitness exercise that allows the stem to jump back to the starting point when it reaches the end of the ruler, generally used in one-hour chronographs and calendar watches, and in high-end watches for stem timing.

Such as the supertrofeo double split-seconds flyback chronograph announced by Longines Masterpieces. Because of the complexity of making a flyback, watches with flyback retrograde effects are generally not quite as cheap.

What does it mean to have three hands and a line

The detailed name for a three-hand, one-wire watch is in fact: a regulation stem watch. The English name is Regulator, which is usually written immediately on the case. It features a case where the hands, minutes, and stem each occupy an inner diameter to evaluate the quantitative watch individually, and the tails of the three hands all fall in a straight line from 12 to 6 o’clock, so it’s called “three hands, one line”.

Because each of the three hands has its own function and jeopardizes each other, mechanical watches are more accurate than the average industrial device watch. Three hands and a line is a remarkable idea, best worn as a formal watch to sign up for the announcement venue.

What does a chronograph do

Chronograph is a professional name in which chrono in Old English and Latin means “time” and graph in English means “a common tool for recording”. The most widespread chronograph is a system of calculating rulers, usually engraved on the far sides of the case or carried on the watch case.

A wide range of chronographs are used to accurately measure the speed of time, although high-end watches are undoubtedly not easy to take into account only the speed limit, such as the ULYSSENARDIN pulse watch, which accurately measures the pulse wave, and the JANEIRO chronograph, which allows TISSOT to accurately measure the interval and the speed of time. The structure of the chronograph is various, importantly divided into single stem, double stem, single button type, double button type, etc., which also belongs to a kind of complicated efficacy of the watch.

What does a helium drain shut-off valve do

Why do professional dive watches try to evacuate helium? In the beginning the capacity of helium is very small, even less than water many times. When a dive watch is reduced to a certain depth under the sea, helium will invade the watch under high pressure. And when the project deep dive gradually rises, the internal gas pressure of the diving watch will be higher than the external at first, at this time, if you do not choose to eliminate the watch helium precautions, the watch case bracelet will immediately explode accident.

The advent of the helium effluent shut-off valve meant that the freediving depth of diving watches was greatly increased. 1985 Rolex was the first to design and develop a professional diving watch with a helium shut-off valve, guaranteeing a freediving depth of an unprecedented 2,000 feet.

Difference between steel and aluminum

At this stage, the two main raw materials for watch making that are currently prevalent on the market are steel and aluminum. The price of a watch with aluminum alloy is generally higher than that of a watch with steel.

First, aluminum is lighter than steel, about 55% of the net weight of steel. Second, aluminum alloys are more resistant to corrosion and compression, and less likely to rust. Many aerospace companies also use aluminum alloys to make prefabricated components for rockets and cruise missiles. Once again, aluminum alloy is more ecologically friendly to the environment than steel, and is less likely to cause symptoms of allergy to metal composites in the human body, in addition to having memory capacity characteristics and more closely bonded to human skin. Thus the aluminum alloy raw materials of the watch although slightly expensive, in fact cost-effective high high high some.

Is rose gold the same as red gold

Many people often see the keywords “18k rose gold” and “18k red gold” when they look at the raw materials of precious metal watches.

Because pure gold is very soft and easily deformed, it is not suitable for watch cases and bracelets, so people choose to add small amounts of other precious metals to increase the compressive strength of gold.

The reddish gold watch case bracelet you see is gold plus copper as the core, in 75% gold plus 25% electrolytic salt water pure copper is red gold, this kind of occupancy caused by the 18k gold tone is the most red. And with the addition of silver, the tone will become lighter, plus the greater the silver, the lighter the red will be. When 18 karat gold, silver composition to 10%, copper returned to about 15% of the condition, the tone will be more pink, also became rose gold. Thus, in reality, the difference between red gold and rose gold is not that big, just a redder hue.

Why are watches with guilloché so expensive

The word “guilloche” is an evolution of the French word guillochis. It means a precise, standardized hand-engraving process with linear and circular design patterns cast by machines.

Making a guilloché case is very complex, and as much as possible, the engraver’s hands handle the carving knife in front of the relief lathe in real time; one hand, coupled with the machining center, rotates the gold pin stock plate, while the other hand applies pressure to the carving knife to control the sharp edge and engrave it on the face plate into the delicate machine-cut design designed by the program.

With the engine camshaft rotating, the milling head moves in different directions, and in addition the case moves back and forth relative to the front of the lathe, and the beautifully engraved texture is then created. In all the whole process here, no tiny omission can be allowed, even if just one by one is enough to ruin all the cases. This is why guilloche watches are so much cooler and more beautiful.

What is a gooseneck adjustment

You will often see “gooseneck” in the details of Glashütte watches. What exactly does a gooseneck adjustment do?

The gooseneck adjustment is for regulating the rate needle, avoiding the inevitable large deviations of the rate needle. The important basic concept is that the rate needle is held in place by the malleability of the metal piece, and then the rate needle deviation is finely adjusted by a tiny dowel, after which the rate needle is fixed in place. The machine resembles the graceful trend of a swan’s neck, which is why it is called a gooseneck adjustment.

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Tissot, mechanical watch error, Glashütte, Rolex, Longines,